Report of ELWA 50 th Anniversary Celebrations at ELWA
Written by Lee Sonius
January 13 - Tuesday
Landing at Robertsfield at high noon, Orbra Bliss and I walked down the steps of the Russian built Weasua Airlines 27 passenger jet. I immediately saw an even dozen white U.N. helicopters lined up on the tar-mac. Another new development that I noticed was the scaffolding on top of the bombed out terminal building that was built in the 70's. This is evidence of the talk that we later heard of it's re-construction. How many bittersweet memories I have of that terminal, comings and goings, hellos and goodbyes. Standing on the 2 nd floor open air observation deck playing the game of who can spot the airplane first. Then waving to all the people getting off the plane, both people you knew and people you didn't.
Passing through immigrations and customs was made easier as I passed out the ELWA 50 th Anniversary Stickers. As everyone would ask, “Where's my New Year,” that is what they got.
Joe Wankollie met us and the trip on the Robertsfield highway to ELWA was interesting as we met dozens of U.N. vehicles going in convoys in both directions. This would be a foretaste of what we would get used to seeing every day that we were in Liberia . There are now 8,000 U.N. peace-keeping forces in the country with a total of 15, 000 expected to be deployed by March or April.
Orbra Bliss left ELWA with his family in 1969 and has not been back to Liberia in 34 plus years. I had met with him in November at the HCJB Engineering Center in Elkhart , Indiana and planted the idea in his mind of coming back for the celebration. I give him a lot of credit for agreeing to make the trip. We had to stop along the road so he could take pictures. He said he had probably only been on that road one other time since it was paved. As we approached ELWA, he could not help but comment over and over about how “none of this was here when we left.” He was amazed at how much the area around ELWA had been built up. He was so excited as we turned into the Hospital entrance to go the long way to the radio station.
As we greeted everyone there, it felt so good to be back. As I have told others on many occasions, every time I visit the ELWA compound, it feels like home. Who says you can never go back home? I will try not to write too much about Orbra's time in Liberia , thinking that he will write his own report that can also be circulated around. Suffice it to say as I wrote in my journal on this day, “Orbra is in 7 th heaven to be back at ELWA.”
Today schedule of events for the celebraton was an open house for the Services and the Medical Divisions. I went up later in the afternoon to the Services offices located in the old ELWA Academy to meet with James Kesselly. I then went to the Radio Station to give them the 4,000 stickers from HCJB World Radio and the recorded congratulatory spots from friends in the USA . They began airing the spots right away and also started in on the stickers. I walked down to Jean and Torcas Tamba's house for a short visit before coming back to the Guest House (Formerly the hostel and before that, the French Duplex). I consider the Tambas' to be my Liberian parents and it is always good to visit with them. Back at the GH, Ol Ma Kortee asked me if Potato Greens would be OK for supper. Yes, I responded, that would be fine. Ah, yes, I am back home. Of course, she could have called the name of any number of Liberian rice dishes and I would have been thrilled with any of them. My mouth was watering.
Now to the business at hand. Have I really been at ELWA 4 hours without going for a swim??? It is 6 pm and time to go. I take about 20 running steps from the front porch to the waves. Now, I AM back home. I joke about this beach and this ocean being mine. I also laugh later with Cass Gonmiah in telling her that the ocean here still knows me and welcomes me back each time I come. I swim out to Naff's rock and climb up on them. I find my “seat” in the rocks that looks like it was framed by a carpenter, complete with a back on it. Sitting down, facing the row of houses on later to be named Thompson Avenue , I take in the view. I could stay here a lot longer but something else is calling me. The Potato Greens. After supper, I walk around the compound greeting old friends who to me might as well be family members. ELWA Radio signs off at 10:30 and the generator is switched off right after that. I am in my room at the Guest House, drifting off to sleep with that old familiar sound of the ocean in the background. It has been a good first day.
January 14 – Wednesday
After breakfast, I took a chance driving to Monrovia without my driver's license, which I had left in Abidjan . I borrowed Henry “Bananas” Brown's old Nissan and took off with Stephen Tamba and others that I picked up at the ELWA entrance to give them a lift. I was pleasantly surprised to find that there are NO checkpoints in the city. This is the first time since the beginning of the war in 1990 that I did not see one check point. I had no problems at all in driving without my license. Monrovia is packed with more people than ever before and not near as many taxis. Transportation is difficult, as many of the taxis were looted, destroyed, and broken down during the fighting of the last year.
Yesterday, I heard some new terms, and today everyone is using that new terminology of World War I, World War II, and World War III. I find out that this refers to 3 different outbreaks of war in the Monrovia area in the year 2003. World War III was what took place in July, August and September, right up to the time that Charles Taylor left the country. Everyone says that World War III was the worst and I don't know how many times I hear people tell stories about one cup of rice being 100 Liberian Dollars (2 USD). During this time, people went for several days without eating and were forced to kill and eat dogs. Monrovia is still today a city in dire need of some of the basic necessities, such as electricity and running water.
I stopped by the Lone Star Cellular (the only cell phone company in town) office to visit some friends, and found out that my old ACS high school classmate, Benoni Urey from Careysburg, has an office there. He was out and I left him a note. I ran into quite a few old friends in Monrovia around the Broad and Randall Streets intersection. Joe Mulbah (Former ELWA News Director and more recently the Minister of Information during some of the Taylor period) drove by and I yelled at him to stop. He parked his slightly beat-up SUV and we had a good visit right there on the street. He is now running a weekly newspaper called “Poll Watch.” We talked until an old friend from ELTV recognized and called out to me. I had worked with him in the early 80's on the YFC television program, “Christofest.”
I stopped by and visited Lebanese friends at Eagle Electric and the U.N. Drive Supermarket. Walking through the fully stocked Grocery Store in Sinkor, it is hard to believe that there are people in the country that can afford the prices marked on many of the items. A box of Honey Combs cereal is 10 USD. I think having all the U.N. peacekeeping forces in the city is giving them more business. It is also bringing in a lot of U.S. currency.
On the way back from town, I stopped by and had a good visit with Papay Fayiah Kabakole at his house across the road from ELWA. Returning to the GuestHouse, I got ready for the afternoon program in the gym. The Thanksgiving and Praise Service started at 4 pm and was the main event of the day. The program mainly consisted of testimonials and special music by various Liberia artists. One of the old groups that has been around for over 20 years, was the duet group, “Open Door for Salvation Singers.” It brought back so many memories to hear them sing several songs in both English and Kru.
Bringing down the house was a fairly new artist in town. Her name is Marron Cassell and she was given an honorary position by Charles Taylor when he first heard her sing. He called her Liberia 's Music Ambassador. She sang two of her most popular songs. The first simply called, “ Liberia ,” and the second called, “The War is Over.” Tears came to my eyes as I listened to these songs, and I made it a point to get copies of her two latest C.D.'s with these songs on them.
For supper tonight, it was rice again (what else is there) with pumpkin soup. For dessert, melt in your mouth super sweet pineapple as only Liberia can produce. As good as the pineapple is in Ivory Coast , I still give the Liberian variety the edge.
Bart and Kevin Bliss arrive tonight and they are staying at the other guest house. The two Guest Houses on the compound are referred to as the small GH and the big GH. I am staying in the small GH, and they are staying in the big one. The big GH is………of course, what else could it be? The de la Haye or the Ackley house. I walk down there to talk to them and see only Bart as Kevin is in bed already. I am anxious to see Kevin since it has been 11 years since we last met at the SIM Centennial Celebration in Charlotte .
Did I forget to mention the ocean. Of course, I went swimming again right after the program in the gym and before supper. Out to Naff's rock again.
January 15 – Thursday
Bart and Kevin Bliss came down to our GH for breakfast. I want to climb the new tower today to get some aerial photos of ELWA. Kevin says he will climb with me. We go up to the radio station to talk to Sargba Borkay and Edwin Zobon about getting climbing belts. They can't find any but they say we can climb up the inside of the tower. The tower is 3 feet across and is 330 feet tall, making it the tallest tower ever on ELWA. It is located behind the new transmitter building not far across the road from the gym. In softball terms, let's just say the base of the tower is just in foul territory down the third base line in left field., Whle Dr. Sacra and Bart Bliss looked on, Kevin and I headed up the inside of the tower with our digital cameras and without climbing belts. We took our good time going up, and in about 30 minutes, were at the top. I sat up on top of the tower and took pictures of all areas of the compound. The tower has just been put up recently and nothing is on it yet. They are planning on moving the FM and some of the two-way radio communication anntenna's onto this tower. It is a new perspective to be up here looking down on the top of the “tall preacher” over in the other field by the old studio.
From the top of the tower, we look down into Services yard and see the old, faded, Thompson/Bliss fiberglass boat. Back down on terra firma, Bart, Kevin, and I walk over there and take pictures of the boat. As Bart stepped into the boat to get his picture taken, his foot went through the fiberglass floor right through to the ground. We reminisced about the fishing trips and the late night crocodile hunts we went on. How about the big Red Snappers and Barracudas pulled in around Marshall ? How about the big 8 plus foot croc that refused to die? Ask Tim Geysbeek Jill Sonius or Uncle Bill about that.
Kevin and I then went down at noon to Befus Beach (between Schindlers house and the CMA house for you old-timers) to do some body surfing. The waves were OK and we had some good rides even though the tide was not perfect for it. After that, we were all invited over to Sacra's house for lunch. We had collard greens and fruit salad and topped it all off with chocolate chip cookies!
The afternoon program today at 4 pm in the gym was called an honoring service. Special recognition was given to all those who have gone on to receive their heavenly reward. James Kesselly broke down as he talked about Dr. Steve Befus. He said, “I just can't believe he is gone.” Plans were revealed to erect a billboard at the main entrance to ELWA in honor of Steve. All the different “streets” on ELWA were also named in honor of famous past and present ELWA'ites. I have forgotten some of them but among those honored were the Thompsons, Kejrs, Ackleys, Kabakoles, and Geysbeeks, and Schindlers. These roads will now be referred to as “ Thompson Avenue ” for instance and street signs will be put up. The famous path which has always been known as Naff's path, has been made officially that. The soccer field up by the main entrance will also be officially re-named as Balzer field.
Each of the divisions (Radio, Services, Medical, and Education) then planted memorial trees in honor of those who have died. After that, we met at the ELWA gravesite to lay wreaths on the graves of Betty Geysbeek, Elsworth Balzer, Aunt Clara, and Jonathan Lueders (I was selected to do the one for him). Esther Kolleh did the one for Betty Geysbeek, Smith Gargannah and Old Man Blackie did the one for Elsworth Balzer, and Moses Nyantee did the one for Aunt Clara. Wreaths were also layed for Dr. Schindler, Steve Befus, and Sam Dennis, by members of the hospital staff. We then held hands in a big circle around the cemetary, sang a song and a few prayers were offered up for the families of those we had honored. It was an emotional time of remembering those who in the past were such an integral part of the work at ELWA. My mind of course was taken back to 1973 and 1977 with the deaths of Betty Geysbeek and Elsworth Balzer. I remember exactly were I was on the compound when I heard the news of each of them. I also was a pall-bearer for Coach Balzer. I remember speaking briefly during his memorial service, since I was asked to represent his team. I broke down in tears afterward back at the drinking fountain in the gym, and Steve Kejr came and put his arm around me and gave me some comforting words.
In the evening, I went swimming again and then we had sweet cassava leaf for supper! At 10:10 pm , I turned on my radio and ELWA was playing the song “He's Alive,” by John Schindler! After that, they played one of Dr. Schindler's signature songs, “Little is much, when God is in it.” What a way to end another good day, listening to these great baritone voices.
January 16 – Friday
Woke up early this morning to sound of heavy rain. It was quite cool as well with the breeze really blowing. It rained for at least two hours, and then continued sprinkling off and on for another few hours. Kevin and I walked down toward Coopers Beach and took a 90 minute trip out in one of the Fante canoes. This is something I had always wanted to do but never had. Kevin also wanted to go so we had made all the arrangements yesterday. We went out through some pretty rough waves and then ended up two to three miles off shore. Rising up and down on big swells while we enjoyed the cool rain and overcast conditions, the motorized canoe took us in closer to ELWA and then down in front of King Gray. The temperature of the water was actually quite a bit warmer than the rain coming down and felt like bath water as we put our hand in over the side of the canoe. I had such a good time out there, and I hope it will not be my first and last experience. I would really like to take my sons, T.J. and Kyle out now, provided I could find life jackets for them to wear!!
At 2 p.m. I walked across the road from ELWA to see Old Man Bodi Zeon. Normally, he would be living back in his village of Zeon Town, but he is recovering from a dog bite and is staying at his daughter Rebecca's house just across from the Hospital entrance. He is very glad to see me and I feel bad that he is not in the condition to come to any of the celebrations. He tells me how Tim Geysbeek had been here just a few weeks ago and had gone to the village to eat with them. Old Man Bodi was one of the very first people that Bill Watkins found in the early 50's when he first arrived on what was to become the ELWA compound. According to Bodi, he was up in a oil palm tree cutting palm nuts when Bill arrived. He started working for ELWA right away clearing the trees and brush, building the roads, and then the houses. I would guess he is in his mid to late 70's, but he himself doesn't know his exact age. He is one of the few long term retirees still around along with Peter Toe, Aaron Vesselee, and David Henry.
The afternoon activity was an anniversary dinner at the de la Haye/Ackley/Guest House. It was here at this program that I made the presentation of the wall hanging made by Carol Kejr and Pat Schult. The entire program and dinner lasted at least 3 hours and afterward, everyone was going up to get a close-up look at the wall hanging. Kevin Bliss also had a presentation to the Liberian management team of a DVD player. There was a time for some remarks and Fayiah Kabakole had an excellent impromptu speech. The main thrust of his talk was an appeal to SIM to come back in greater strength to help the management team. He talked about his early upbringing and how he was actually living in King Gray in 1952, and had even attended the original dedication of ELWA as a young boy. He really wants to see SIM come along side the Liberian staff at ELWA and help out in whatever way possible, but most importantly in the area of training and encouragement. We had a good variety of food at the feast highlighted by jollof rice.
January 17 – Saturday
Today is Sports Day! The first thing on the agenda is a big march complete with banners and the AFL band. We were to meet at the Samuel K. Doe Stadium just past King Gray and begin the walk from there. Everyone had been instructed to wear the ELWA 50 th anniversary white t-shirts. We started to assemble at 8:45 and by 9 o'clock we were on the way. We marched from the stadium to the Monrovia-Kakata highway junction and then turned around to head back to ELWA. We walked, sang, and danced all along the way, passing out stickers and receiving greetings from well-wishers. It was a wild and enthusiastic scene all along the 4 to 5 mile walk, with smiles and thumbs-up coming even from the U.N. convoys.
I video taped quite a lot of the march, running on ahead to pick out good spots to capture the event. We walked all the way back on the highway to the hospital junction and entered there, walking past the hospital, gym, and studio and ending up on the football field by the main entrance. I was quite impressed with Bart Bliss and Orbra Bliss who walked most of the way. An old lady dressed in all white met the march at King Gray and danced/ran/walked the rest of the way with us. I was so thrilled to see her enthusiasm that I took some good video footage of her.
After a short break, the games began with Radio/Services Women playing the Hospital Women in Kickball. Hospital ended up winning 16-6. Next on the agenda was the much publicized and joked about football match between the same Radio/Services and Hospital. The game started around 2 pm . The field was completely lined with spectators and the atmosphere was full of fun. Yours truly was in the goal for the Radio/Services side, breaking out a brand new goal keeping jersey for the event. The first half I was hardly tested but by the second half, hospital launched an all out attack to try and score. Kevin Bliss got in the game toward the end and made some good moves at mid-field. I had to make 3 or 4 good saves toward the end and when the dust had settled, we had a shut-out as Radio/Services sent Hospital to the emergency room with a 2-0 defeat. Hospital had threatened to give us all injections before the game. For our part, we said we will send you back to your hospital for treatment. After the game, Hospital said they were filing a protest because of Radio/Services foreign based (from Cote d'Ivoire ) goal-keeper who shut them out. Smile. We all had so much fun over it. The only thing Hospital had to fall back on was that the days events had ended in a tie, with the Hospital women winning in kickball and the Radio/Services men winning in Football. After the Football game, we ended up at the new transmitter building by the gym for refreshments, as we continued to enjoy re-hashing the events of the day.
Kevin Bliss and I went for a swim and then had some sweet rice and palm butter with fish for supper. This has been an exhausting day. Everyone will sleep well tonight.
January 18 – Sunday
I woke up with great anticipation and excitement for the BIG DAY! Bart and Kevin Bliss and I started the day off by walking down the beach to the fishing boats to take some pictures. Then at 9:30 we went to church at ICM. I saw a few folks there at church that I did not see the whole rest of the time, like Ciapha Kplor and James “Papa Leaky” David.
I got dressed in my Kente cloth shirt from Ghana and walked down through the swamp on Naff''s path to head up to the gym. How different that path is now from the 70's. It would be completely impossible to play “Combat” in and around that swamp like we used to do. When you walk on that path now, it is literally like walking through a jungle, with the mangroves and bush growing up on either side almost to the extent of making a tunnel.
I was one of the first to arrive at the gym for the scheduled 2 pm official anniversary program. Arriving at before 1:30 , I didn't want to miss anything or anyone showing up for the program. The program got started closer to 2:30 than 2:00 and I was given a seat up in front on the stage with a host of other ELWA officials and invited guests. I sat right beside our good friend from Abidjan , Christine Tolbert Norman.
I would do many people an injustice if I tried to name all those who were there, but I should point out a few. Alvina Federwitz from TILL, Chad Tubman, Edith Ware (she had made a decorative wreath for ELWA and the occasion), and Eusebio Bollie. Of course, all the divisions of ELWA were very well represented. Bart Bliss had a good speech as he officially represented SIM from the USA . Dr. Sacra spoke, as well as many others on the ELWA management team. There was music, and of course the phone call from the group celebrating in Charlotte . Christine Tolbert Norman was at the podium giving remarks when the call came in. The call did not work out as well as planned but it still was a nice gesture to unite the two groups. I spoke as a representative from HCJB World Radio and we had some fun looking back at some of the radio programs and music that have been so popular over the years. I started my speech with two African Proverbs.
“We are here today to celebrate 50 years of ELWA ministry. On an occasion like this, we have to spend some time looking back. An African proverb from Ghana says, ‘the longest river never forgets its source.' Another proverb from Zambia goes like this. ‘If you want to know where you are going, don't forget to look back to where you have come from.'”
Then after spending a few minutes looking back, I ended the talk like this.
“I was here for ELWA's 20 th , 25 th , 30 th , and 35 th anniversary and it has been my prayer and dream over the last 4 or 5 years to attend this jubilee cele- bration. Today, my prayers have been answered and my dream has come true. I consider it a great privilege and honor to be here today. Happy birthday to Eternal Love Winning Africa.”
By the time the program was over at about 5 pm , the gym was packed with a standing room only crowd. People were looking in the windows and some were standing outside at the back. We finished with a candle light procession out of the gym to symbolize the idea of “keep the torch burning.” This was the motto printed on the ELWA 50 th anniversary t-shirts.
Outside of the gym, refreshments were served again and many people stayed around for 30 to 45 minutes visiting with one another. I found myself many times during this day thinking back on the events that were happening 50 years earlier, and all the things that have transpired over the years. The first hymn played on ELWA on Jan. 18 th , 1954 was “Great is Thy Faithfulness. Truly, God has been faithful to ELWA over the years. He has been faithful in the good times and He has been faithful during the difficult times. Praise God for his un-failing and continued faithfulness.
Kevin Bliss and I ending the day by going for a swim as the sun was setting over the Atlantic Ocean . I thought it fitting that one of the best sunsets we saw while we were there was that evening.
January 19, Monday
Joe Wankollie took me back to the airport to catch my flight back to Abidjan . When I arrived home, I noticed that my guest room key was still in my pocket. I guess I can't remember everything. After all, I am not Steve Snyder. J Ol Ma Kortee is not going to be happy with me –O !!!!